The Remote 14th-Century Bhutanese Fortress Steeped in Buddhist Heritage

"Ogyen Choling is a perfect microcosm of Bhutan," Brent Olson, founder of tour provider Ethos Bhutan, told me over the phone as we discussed my plans for a two-week trip to the tiny, landlocked Himalayan nation last year. Because of the country’s remoteness, sandwiched between northeastern India and the Tibetan plateau, and a newly increased tourism fee—$200 a night for international visitors—it’s an expensive destination to visit. "If a friend was traveling to Bhutan and could visit only one or two places, I’d tell them to visit Ogyen Choling," continued Olson, who has been leading tours in Bhutan for more than 30 years, becoming an expert on the country’s cultural heritage through his expeditions and other projects with local organizations and nonprofits.