A Weekend in Portland: Part I

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By Paige Alexus / Published by Dwell
This year was the first time we visited Portland for Dwell Home Tours—and the City of Roses truly blew us away.

We threw ourselves into the city, searching out the best destinations—from shops and markets, to restaurants, parks, and more. Follow us through our two-day whirlwind tour of Portland.

Where to Stay 

Ace Hotel Portland: 1022 Southwest Stark Street, Portland, OR 97205

If you’re looking for a boutique hotel that fits with the vibe of Portland like a glove, the Ace Hotel is the place to go. Besides the fact that the downtown location couldn’t be any more convenient, every single inch of the space is well thought-out and filled with character. Located in the 1912 Clyde Hotel building just a short walk from the Pearl District, the hotel is walking distance to endless shops, restaurants, bars, and coffee joints. When we first arrived to this historic building that was converted into the hotel in 2005, the lobby stopped us in our tracks. The design details range from industrial and raw, to intricate and textured. 

A Weekend in Portland: Part I - Photo 1 of 11 - Sitting under an expansive light fixture and surrounded by street view windows is a green velvet sectional where visitors can be found day and night catching up on the news, or sipping on a cup of coffee from the adjacent Stumptown. The lobby also hosts an old-school photo booth, a shop with some quintessential Portland gear, and an old wood staircase that leads up to a lounge/office area that has the vibe of a historical library.

Sitting under an expansive light fixture and surrounded by street view windows is a green velvet sectional where visitors can be found day and night catching up on the news, or sipping on a cup of coffee from the adjacent Stumptown. The lobby also hosts an old-school photo booth, a shop with some quintessential Portland gear, and an old wood staircase that leads up to a lounge/office area that has the vibe of a historical library.

We were pleasantly surprised to find that every room has its own character with different wall murals, furniture arrangements, bathroom setups, and window treatments. We were given actual keys—as opposed to key cards—and found ourselves wanting to see what everyone else’s rooms looked like. If I could describe the quarters in one sentence, I’d say that it felt like we were staying in a cool camping bunker that’s rough around all the right edges.  

A Weekend in Portland: Part I - Photo 2 of 11 - Every room has a different setup, many of which include custom wall murals that are usually quirky and lighthearted. Industrial and rough details make you feel like you’re camping, including wool quilts from Pendleton for the Ace Hotel, barn door sliding windows, heavy metal hardware, and old claw foot bathtubs.

Every room has a different setup, many of which include custom wall murals that are usually quirky and lighthearted. Industrial and rough details make you feel like you’re camping, including wool quilts from Pendleton for the Ace Hotel, barn door sliding windows, heavy metal hardware, and old claw foot bathtubs.

The Early Morning Fuel 

Stumptown Coffee: 1026 SW Stark St, Portland, OR 97205 

Voodoo Doughnuts: 22 Southwest 3rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97204

Before we hit the town for some shopping and exploring, we made sure to grab a quick breakfast in the vicinity of the hotel. Stumptown Coffee has a post directly connected to the lobby, so you can grab a cappuccino "to-go" and head back into the cozy lobby to catch up on some morning reads. If you’re interested in seeing where it all began, you can visit Stumptown’s headquarters in an old lumber factory on SE Salmon Street—which has been around since 2012. There, you can take part in daily public tastings or schedule a tour to explore their roastery, offices, and training rooms. 

A Weekend in Portland: Part I - Photo 3 of 11 - Voodoo Doughnut’s recognizable pink boxes are famous throughout Portland. You can fill them with wacky doughnut creations and enjoy them alongside a fresh coffee from Stumptown’s post within the Ace Hotel. We brought them both back to the lobby to enjoy along with their selection of magazines and newspapers. 

Voodoo Doughnut’s recognizable pink boxes are famous throughout Portland. You can fill them with wacky doughnut creations and enjoy them alongside a fresh coffee from Stumptown’s post within the Ace Hotel. We brought them both back to the lobby to enjoy along with their selection of magazines and newspapers. 

After multiple people recommended Voodoo Doughnuts as one of the best places around, we walked over (about a 10 minute stroll) to grab a box to-go. Expect to find crazy and wacky doughnut creations and a space that’s about as quirky as it gets. We were also recommended Blue Star Donuts, which had a line around the block for a large chunk of the day—proving that doughnuts are king in Portland. 

For the Adventure Seeker 

Poler: 413 SW 10th Ave, Portland, OR 97205

After being surrounded by such an outdoors-y crowd for less than 24 hours, we felt it was only right to try and find the best outdoor adventure shop. Poler is the place. We stumbled upon it while turning the corner a block from the hotel—one look at the camping environment they styled in the window, and we knew we had to check it out. It’s filled with colorful camping gear from their own line that ranges from thermoses, hats, and backpacks—to larger items like tents and sleeping bags. If this place doesn’t make you want to drop everything and go camping, then I don’t know what will. You can even take a load off on their centralized pair of sofas where you can peruse an impressive selection of books and magazines on adventure and travel photography.

A Weekend in Portland: Part I - Photo 4 of 11 - Poler is located around the corner from the Ace Hotel and is nestled between a number of other interesting retail spaces. The colorful exterior hints at the bright interior to come.

Poler is located around the corner from the Ace Hotel and is nestled between a number of other interesting retail spaces. The colorful exterior hints at the bright interior to come.

A Weekend in Portland: Part I - Photo 5 of 11 - Each wall in Poler is lined with colorful outdoor gear and accessories. Every corner of the store brings you closer to your future camping adventure.

Each wall in Poler is lined with colorful outdoor gear and accessories. Every corner of the store brings you closer to your future camping adventure.

For Gifts and Blooms

Alder & Co.: 616 SW 12th Ave, Portland, OR 97205

When you’re making your way back to the hotel, we recommend you stop at Alder & Co. Located right around the corner from the Ace, it’s filled with beautiful tableware, hard-to-find apothecary goods, and a curated selection of books, accessories, and jewelry. One of the best parts of the store is the Hilary Hovrath flower shop that stands at the entrance. It’s the perfect spot to grab a few loose stems or a casual bouquet to take back to your hotel.  

A Weekend in Portland: Part I - Photo 6 of 11 - Along with ceramics, books, textiles, and accessories, Alder & Co. includes Hilary Hovrath’s flower shop where you can pick up market stems or a bouquet of your choice.

Along with ceramics, books, textiles, and accessories, Alder & Co. includes Hilary Hovrath’s flower shop where you can pick up market stems or a bouquet of your choice.

The Peaceful Outdoor Pitstop 

Tanner Springs Park: NW 10th Ave, Portland, OR 97204

Make sure to save some time to stop by some of the parks that are spread out throughout Portland. We were surprised to discover Tanner Springs Park, and how it quietly hides in the middle of the bustling Pearl District. In this area that used to be a wetland and lake that was fueled by streams from the nearby hills, the park sits 20 feet above the former lake’s surface. Ever since the city made a goal to create a network of open spaces in the early 1990s, this park—along with several others—has become a quiet respite from its urban surroundings. In 2003, German design firm Atelier Dreiseitl and local landscape architecture firm GreenWorks, P.C. brought the community into the design process to turn it into what it is today.

A Weekend in Portland: Part I - Photo 7 of 11 - At Tanner Springs Park, the water from Tanner Creek that used to flow through freely, now pumps through large pipes beneath the streets. The art wall is constructed of 368 railroad tracks and 99 pieces of fused glass that’s inset with images of insects and animals. The creatures were hand-painted by Herbert Dreiseitl on Portland glass. The art wall also acts as a divider between the park and the street.

At Tanner Springs Park, the water from Tanner Creek that used to flow through freely, now pumps through large pipes beneath the streets. The art wall is constructed of 368 railroad tracks and 99 pieces of fused glass that’s inset with images of insects and animals. The creatures were hand-painted by Herbert Dreiseitl on Portland glass. The art wall also acts as a divider between the park and the street.

The Pre-Dinner Cocktail 

Angel Face: 14 NE 28th Ave, Portland, OR 97232

What makes a lot of these stops so special is their connection to the Portland culture. However, it’s also nice to step into another world that’s completely unexpected. So is the case with Angel Face, a Lyonnaise-style bistro that serves incredible cocktails and a range of French food in a transportive environment. The horseshoe-shaped walnut and marble bar creates a communal atmosphere while the classic bistro-style details in black wood, brass, and marble pull the vibe together. 

A Weekend in Portland: Part I - Photo 8 of 11 - At Angel Face, the floral walls are hand-painted by artist Michael Paulus and the cocktails are crafted with a careful attention to detail.

At Angel Face, the floral walls are hand-painted by artist Michael Paulus and the cocktails are crafted with a careful attention to detail.

You can choose to grab a cocktail and small bites, or go for a full meal—with some delicious dessert options. It sits next door to chef/owner John Taboada’s well-known restaurant Navarre, which serves food with origins from Italy, France, and Spain.

A Weekend in Portland: Part I - Photo 9 of 11 - We stopped for a cocktail and were offered either a classic fare or a custom creation that’s crafted to perfection. 

We stopped for a cocktail and were offered either a classic fare or a custom creation that’s crafted to perfection. 

Must-Go Dinner Option I 

The Hairy Lobster: 900 NW 11th Ave, Portland, OR 97209

The first night we were in the city, our colleague recommended The Hairy Lobster, which has now become one of our favorite eating spots. Opened recently by chef extraordinaire couple, David and Mellisa Root, the restaurant is a casual eatery that serves incredible, local food that experiments with textures and tastes. The duo has filled the space with a mix-match of vintage tableware, industrial furniture, and antiques from their travels. They visit the farmers’ market twice per week and work together to create a warm atmosphere that feels collected—and serves great food.

A Weekend in Portland: Part I - Photo 10 of 11 - The first thing you’ll notice when you walk in the space is the blue painted wall that’s filled with a collection of door knockers. Owners Mellisa and David explained that the wood came from old rotting table tops that they let dry for two months before painting them blue and posting them up on the wall. They’ve collected the door knockers themselves at flea markets throughout their travels. Each one means something special to them.

The first thing you’ll notice when you walk in the space is the blue painted wall that’s filled with a collection of door knockers. Owners Mellisa and David explained that the wood came from old rotting table tops that they let dry for two months before painting them blue and posting them up on the wall. They’ve collected the door knockers themselves at flea markets throughout their travels. Each one means something special to them.


A Weekend in Portland: Part I - Photo 11 of 11 - Owners David and Mellisa spent time with us telling the story of how their personal and professional lives have merged in a serendipitous way. David is the head Chef while Mellisa is Executive Pastry Chef. They both work closely to create a welcoming, casual, farm-to-table, experience. 

Owners David and Mellisa spent time with us telling the story of how their personal and professional lives have merged in a serendipitous way. David is the head Chef while Mellisa is Executive Pastry Chef. They both work closely to create a welcoming, casual, farm-to-table, experience. 

After exploring these stops and talking to as many people as we could, we gathered a couple of other recommendations that are worth checking out if you have time.

  • Powell’s Books: As the world’s largest independent bookstore, you’ll find endless reads without having to leave the Pearl District. 
  • Beam & Anchor: Explore this retail space for an impressive selection of furniture, accessories, and home goods from artisans and makers.

Make sure to check out the next segment of our trip, where we lead you through our second day of adventures in Portland.