Please Cincinnati

By Amanda Dameron / Published by Dwell
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A Rising Chef Creates a Restaurant by Design.

Ryan Santos, an Ohio native and largely self-taught chef, has opened his first-ever restaurant: Please, a 30-seat establishment in Cincinnati focused on local produce and inventive dishes. In doing so, he is emerging as one of the leading creative talents in the city’s cultural renaissance. 

Ohio native Ryan Santos recently opened his first restaurant, Please, in downtown Cincinnati. An accredited graphic designer, Santos pursued culinary training in restaurants in Denmark and Belgium. Today he is integrating the cooking and foraging techniques he gleaned from the European dining scene and transporting them to southwestern Ohio.

Ohio native Ryan Santos recently opened his first restaurant, Please, in downtown Cincinnati. An accredited graphic designer, Santos pursued culinary training in restaurants in Denmark and Belgium. Today he is integrating the cooking and foraging techniques he gleaned from the European dining scene and transporting them to southwestern Ohio.

Photo: Brooke Shanesy

Dwell: You went to school for graphic design and then decided you’d rather be a chef. You rose in the ranks of the restaurant scene in Cleveland, then departed for Europe for two years to train in Copenhagen. You then chose to return to Ohio, where you launched a successful series of pop-up dinner parties. When did it occur to you that you might like to open your own restaurant? 

Ryan Santos: It’s funny. One of my sous chefs asked me, "How do you know when you’re ready?" There were nights when I thought I was ready, and then I’d have another night where I definitely wasn’t. My last part-time job was in Virginia, working for John Shields, a chef who went on to open Smyth, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Chicago. He was a mentor to me. The combination of creating successful pop-ups, my travels in Europe, and my time working for him kind of connected. It was like, "Okay, I’m ready." 

The renovation and design of the space, which had been vacant for decades when Ryan found it, was realized through a team comprised of Santos, local design-build firm Drawing Dept, and contractors Sansalone & Associates. Many local makers were involved in outfitting the interiors, from the custom bent-wood chairs by Brush Factory to the bespoke serving ware created by local artisan Christie Goodfellow of CG Ceramics. 

The renovation and design of the space, which had been vacant for decades when Ryan found it, was realized through a team comprised of Santos, local design-build firm Drawing Dept, and contractors Sansalone & Associates. Many local makers were involved in outfitting the interiors, from the custom bent-wood chairs by Brush Factory to the bespoke serving ware created by local artisan Christie Goodfellow of CG Ceramics. 

Photo: Brooke Shanesy

Dwell: Why Cincinnati? You could have gone anywhere. 

Santos: It really clicked when I saw the available spaces in Cincinnati, especially in the Over-the-Rhine neighborhood downtown. Just really old, historic, beautiful structures that reflected the size and flow of restaurants I’d seen in my travels in Europe. I realized that the style and layouts of the restaurants I loved there could also work here. 

Original details, such as the ornate work on the structure’s facade, were carefully preserved and embellished. The restaurant is located in Cincinnati's Over-the-Rhine neighborhood, an area downtown that has been the home of scores of German-owned beer halls over the city's history. 

Original details, such as the ornate work on the structure’s facade, were carefully preserved and embellished. The restaurant is located in Cincinnati's Over-the-Rhine neighborhood, an area downtown that has been the home of scores of German-owned beer halls over the city's history. 

Photo: Brooke Shanesy

Dwell: You maintain a garden right in the middle of downtown, in between a few derelict buildings. How did that come to be? 

A few blocks from the restaurant is an urban garden that Santos cultivated over the course of the last two years. Surrounded by derelict structures, the site is a thriving pastoral scene during peak harvest season. Santos and his team of chefs visit it daily, and plan the rotating roster of crops carefully over the course of the year. 

A few blocks from the restaurant is an urban garden that Santos cultivated over the course of the last two years. Surrounded by derelict structures, the site is a thriving pastoral scene during peak harvest season. Santos and his team of chefs visit it daily, and plan the rotating roster of crops carefully over the course of the year. 

Photo: Brooke Shanesy

Santos: An acquaintance was managing it, but his projects took him elsewhere, so the garden was sitting underutilized. I reached out to him and wrote a proposal. It’s great to be able to walk half a block and go pull weeds or pick vegetables, just to clear my mind.Having the garden is a really inspirational force for the kitchen. Cooks make a garden run every day—if we’re looking for inspiration for a dish or a final layer, it’s there. Now we have a great larder of pickles and preserves, things we constantly pull into dishes. We just found out it will be around next year, so the cooks are game-planning what to plant. 

Dwell: You also do many foraging trips in the area. How did you learn to identify edible plants? 

Santos is an avid forager and regularly visits sites in and around Cincinnati to discover and incorporate native ingredients into his constantly changing menu. He organizes trips with his team, and shares techniques with the other like-minded chefs that work with him. 

Santos is an avid forager and regularly visits sites in and around Cincinnati to discover and incorporate native ingredients into his constantly changing menu. He organizes trips with his team, and shares techniques with the other like-minded chefs that work with him. 

Photo: Brooke Shanesy

Santos: It all began when I worked in Copenhagen, where the chefs really relied upon the practice. One of the restaurants, Kadeau, is located on an island, and they grow or forage everything they use there. Foraging is one of those things that you can read and study about, but until you have somebody who takes you out and shows you the indescribable differences in some things or how to spot them . . . . I just watched how they went about it and saw that many of the things that grew there also grew here. 

Santos initially focused on pop-up restaurant happenings, before he decided to open his own restaurant. Through a deft use of social media and an increasingly appreciative local community of food lovers, his series of events grew wildly popular in Cincinnati and beyond. 

Santos initially focused on pop-up restaurant happenings, before he decided to open his own restaurant. Through a deft use of social media and an increasingly appreciative local community of food lovers, his series of events grew wildly popular in Cincinnati and beyond. 

Photo: Brooke Shanesy

Dwell: Do you take your team out with you to teach and pass along the knowledge? 

Santos: I do. Some come with knowledge of their own.  

Here the chef selects a few oyster mushrooms, which "grow on trees and logs during the wetter part of summer," he explains. At Please, the fungi are used for stock as well as in composed dishes, combined with shallots, thyme, and butter. Santos notes that this particular specimen is identified by its distinctive bunching pattern and its "oyster-like" scent. 

Here the chef selects a few oyster mushrooms, which "grow on trees and logs during the wetter part of summer," he explains. At Please, the fungi are used for stock as well as in composed dishes, combined with shallots, thyme, and butter. Santos notes that this particular specimen is identified by its distinctive bunching pattern and its "oyster-like" scent. 

Photo: Brooke Shanesy

Dwell: You went to school for graphic design but chose to become a chef instead. Why? 

Santos and his girlfriend, Jessie, hand-painted the tiles in the bathroom; it's become a popular spot for guests to snap selfies. 

Santos and his girlfriend, Jessie, hand-painted the tiles in the bathroom; it's become a popular spot for guests to snap selfies. 

Photo: Brooke Shanesy

Santos: I never stopped wanting to design. It just became more of a hobby. In creating the vision of the restaurant, I had my hands in designing the menu and the space, which was a new thing for me, to think in the three dimensions of an environment. I use the techniques and skills that I learned in design school about the use of color and composition and apply them to how we think of plates and food and dishes. I try to create an open environment, just like in design school, in the sense that anyone, no matter their skill level, can pitch ideas. 

The project of rehabilitating the interior took well over a year and a half. "The ugliness and the decay of the space are what attracted me to it," Santos says. "I thought it was super beautiful, but it took some creative construction." 

The project of rehabilitating the interior took well over a year and a half. "The ugliness and the decay of the space are what attracted me to it," Santos says. "I thought it was super beautiful, but it took some creative construction." 

Photo: Brooke Shanesy

Dwell: Can you describe the state of the building when you came upon it? 

Santos: It had been empty for decades. The windows were all boarded up. There were parts of the floor that were nonexistent. We were lucky there wasn’t any roof damage, which meant there was no water damage in the building. Almost all the original woodwork that was in the space was completely intact. While it is weathered, it’s completely intact. We tried to respect the historic, run-down, original part of the building, while layering in newer things to create a space that felt personal and authentic to the neighborhood. 

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Photo: Brooke Shanesy

Dwell: You had to excavate the dirt floor of the basement to accommodate storage. Sounds challenging. 

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Photo: Brooke Shanesy

Santos: We knew we were going to need more space, so we dropped the floor by about eight inches, working through a hole we cut in the floor above. We kept all the original wood panels and kind of reengineered it and restructured it. Also, the staircase is historic, so we couldn’t touch it, and it’s not even 36 inches wide. We dropped an electric bobcat into the basement to dig it out. It was an incredible sight. 

Amanda Dameron

@AmandaDameron

Editor in Chief / @amandadameron

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