When Mélanie Masarin founded the nonalcoholic apéritif brand Ghia, it came out of a desire to make nondrinkers like herself feel less displaced in an otherwise boozy society. (Masarin knows this firsthand as someone who grew up in a very food-centric household in Lyon, France, under the care of an “amazing chef” grandmother.) “A few years into my career, I stopped drinking for no particular reason, which I think is actually the hardest to explain,” says Masarin. “Like, I wasn’t pregnant, I wasn’t sober…I just felt so much better without it—and what I felt was, if I wanted to eat at the restaurants that I loved or if I was throwing a dinner party, I always felt excluded even when I was cooking for a lot of people.” Thus, the Italian amaro-inspired Ghia was born.

Traditional mocktails are generally sugary and juice-based, but Ghia’s offerings, Masarin says, are “more complex that travel through the palate with four to five notes like an alcoholic drink would,” with botanical extracts, bitters, and herbals. “Being a bit food-obsessed, I really wanted to create certain notes that blur the lines and help break down the social construct around drinking,” she adds.

And, to be sure, Ghia isn’t meant for those who are totally sober—Masarin says a “very estimated” 85 percent of customers would likely describe themselves as a sporadic drinker. What Ghia aims to do is offer those folks an option to “take a night off sometimes,” since so much of casual drinking can simply be habitual; the mentality is more of a lifestyle shift similar to, say, eating vegetarian or vegan a few times a week. Those who are spirit-free-curious can sip from the Ghia lineup, which includes the soothing Apéritif that comes in a gorgeous glass bottle and the signature (canned) bitter aperitivo Le Spritz. For Masarin, being able to stock her dinners with Ghia scratches her itch for throwing parties that cater to all her guests, however they choose to imbibe.

Before lockdown, Masarin loved hosting at least once a week at her apartment in New York. Now, she’s flexing her hostess duties once again, this time in her Los Angeles home where she’s since settled—perks include having a bigger kitchen to play around in and all-year access to abundant California produce. “I always say that a good dinner party is where the food is good, but you know, it’s not the central ingredient,” explains Masarin. “Food is just a catalyst for good conversation. I like to make meals and desserts that last a long time so people just linger a little bit. It’s why I love little puzzles and fruits and things that give people an excuse to stay longer if they're chatting.” As for her favorite products for hosting, Masarin loves a mix of sustainable cooking and serving essentials for the dining experience, and then compostable to-go containers so people can take home leftovers.

I ask if Masarin has a method for putting together a superb guest list. Setting the vibes is just as crucial as setting the table, after all. She loves to invite “a mix of people who know each other and people who don’t; people who work in different industries or may have friends in common,” she says. Masarin notes that it’s also important for her to invite a relatively equal number of men, women, and gender nonconforming folks, as well as guests who are both coupled-up and single. “You always want single people to bring on the energy,” she says.

“This is maybe the tool I use the most, and also my go-to wedding gift—the Dutchess, and accompanying Dutch baby. Good for sautéing, braising, roasting, and pretty enough to display on the table.”

“My mom and sister’s company makes these beautiful tea towels made of antique towels they restore and dye in fun colors. I probably have thirty of them and use them generously as trivets, potholders. I just throw them in a big wash of linen at the end of the night—they’re so much more chic and sustainable than paper towels.”

“Most of my dinner parties start with everyone in the kitchen having a first drink around a grazing board, while I fuss to dress the salad and put the final touches on dinner. I love having a large board of charcuterie, bread, butter. I’ve recently started whipping my own butter before guests arrive—low effort, very high reward! Highly recommend. These serving utensils are durable and beautiful.”

“I always try to build as inclusive a table as possible, and having the option for nonalcoholic drinks is part of this philosophy. If I’m hosting a lot of people, I’ll make a Ghia punch with some mint and let the friends who want to imbibe spike it with tequila. If I only have a few teetotalers joining, I’ll have a nice ice bucket with cans on display. Often, even when the wine is bountiful, I notice my friends switching to Ghia later in the evening to avoid a hangover the next morning.”

“I try to make my garnishes myself but when I’m short on time, these dehydrated limes do the trick! I love the look of the wood pearl cocktail picks for cheese boards and other amuse-bouches.”

“A few years ago I got gifted this beautiful dabba, full of spices, and I’ve never looked back. I love how they are all organized and beautiful enough to display. The cardamom, chili, and pepper are second to none in quality, and it’s become one of my go-to gift as well (you can build your own set on the site).”

“I love the drama of these little cups. When the food is finished but the conversation is still going, I like to fill them with biscottis, red fruits, and other small cookies on the table and serve with ginger lemon tea to help settle the stomach and wind down.”

“Since I always have a few guests who do not cook—the ones who are most impressed with a home-cooked meal—I like to have these on hand to send them home with a lunch box for the next day. These are sustainable, too!”

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How to Throw a Great Dinner Party, According to Ghia’s Mélanie Masarin