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The client is a graphic designer who works in Charlottesville, VA during the week and spends evenings and weekends on projects which include printing, book-binding and painting, as well as cooking and farming.
The client is a graphic designer who works in Charlottesville, VA during the week and spends evenings and weekends on projects which include printing, book-binding and painting, as well as cooking and farming.
A longtime crafter, Leen worked primarily with clay and did bookbinding. But a decade ago she saw the work of the Dutch felt artist Claudy Jongstra and was drawn to the felt-making process. She experimented by dragging loose sheep’s wool, wrapped around a concrete roller, behind a tractor along the harborfront; after an hour, the fibers would interweave and create a fabric. More recently, following three years of trial and error, she built a large steel machine in her workshop that streamlines the way she creates the material.
A longtime crafter, Leen worked primarily with clay and did bookbinding. But a decade ago she saw the work of the Dutch felt artist Claudy Jongstra and was drawn to the felt-making process. She experimented by dragging loose sheep’s wool, wrapped around a concrete roller, behind a tractor along the harborfront; after an hour, the fibers would interweave and create a fabric. More recently, following three years of trial and error, she built a large steel machine in her workshop that streamlines the way she creates the material.
Your supplies! The good thing about stocking up is that most of these purchases will last you through a few hardbacks. A firm cardboard. Try binder's board, chipboard, or the covers of an old 3-ring binder. -80lb paper. The amount of sheets depends on how thick you'd like your book to be. We bought a Strathmore 400 Series Drawing Pad, with 24 sheets of 9"x12" paper. -A brush to spread the glue thinly and evenly. -Sharp utility blade (box-cutter or X-Acto will work). -Ruler or measuring tape. -Scissors. -A few sheets of wax paper. -Paper-backed or non-porous cloth, or heavy paper for wrapping the cardboard to form the hardcover. We used Lineco Book Cloth in forest green. -A pencil. -Small awl or chisel.-A swatch of loose weave cloth (cheesecloth works great). You'll be cutting this into a few different pieces, the longest of which needs to be as long as the spine of your book. -Glue. PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue is usually used in bookbinding because it dries quickly, is flexible, and is also acid-free. However, it is usually a little more expensive. Your standard white craft or school glue should work, too. - Heavy thread/a> and a needle. The thread can be run across a block of beeswax to prevent tangling, but isn't necessary.
Your supplies! The good thing about stocking up is that most of these purchases will last you through a few hardbacks. A firm cardboard. Try binder's board, chipboard, or the covers of an old 3-ring binder. -80lb paper. The amount of sheets depends on how thick you'd like your book to be. We bought a Strathmore 400 Series Drawing Pad, with 24 sheets of 9"x12" paper. -A brush to spread the glue thinly and evenly. -Sharp utility blade (box-cutter or X-Acto will work). -Ruler or measuring tape. -Scissors. -A few sheets of wax paper. -Paper-backed or non-porous cloth, or heavy paper for wrapping the cardboard to form the hardcover. We used Lineco Book Cloth in forest green. -A pencil. -Small awl or chisel.-A swatch of loose weave cloth (cheesecloth works great). You'll be cutting this into a few different pieces, the longest of which needs to be as long as the spine of your book. -Glue. PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue is usually used in bookbinding because it dries quickly, is flexible, and is also acid-free. However, it is usually a little more expensive. Your standard white craft or school glue should work, too. - Heavy thread/a> and a needle. The thread can be run across a block of beeswax to prevent tangling, but isn't necessary.