Santiago, Chile, is Neruda-land, an unsung city with hidden cultural and gastronomic surprises. Long ago, someone described it to me as the 'cleanest European city they had ever visited', which sounds boring but Santiago isn't. There are no Pre-Incan ruins here, nor an abundance of Spanish conquistador relics. No, it doesn't have the edgy, electric buzz of Buenos Aires or Rio de Janeiro. Santiago is just a happy melting pot of old and new, tradition and progress, art and food, that needs some effort to be discovered.