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Tools of the Trade

All serious cooks have one do-or-die utensil that they simply cannot live without—be it extralong ryoribashi or a dimpled copper pot for melting butter. We canvassed professionals and amateurs alike to share their favorite everyday instruments and the stories behind why they return to these items meal after meal.

small mortar rare device square

Small Mortar

I recently discovered the magic that is the mortar and pestle. Grinding spices, seeds, garlic and other ingredients manually as part of the cooking process brings out intense flavors and has taken my cooking to the next level. I love the wood and white ceramic combo of this particular set. It's beautiful and functional. —Lisa Congdon
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Bambu Tongs

I use this to fetch toast from my old toaster that doesn't pop up anymore, it's essential for the mornings when I'm too bleary to fuss with finding something that isn't metal to stick in the toaster. Said toaster only works half the time so these tongs are also used to pluck toast from under the broiler when I need to resort to that method. I also use it to pull roasting things out of the oven and flip things in frying pans. With no hinges or attached bits it's easy to keep clean and simple to store. Since it's made of bamboo it's friendly for the environment and I cannot melt it, no matter how incompetent I am. —Megan Reardon of notmartha.org
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Microplane Grater

The microplane is one of my most beloved instruments. The fine-shaving device is the best for turning citrus rinds and hard cheeses into soft, snowy bits. —Sarah Rich
john julian mortar pestle square

Flat Spear Porcelain Mortar and Pestle

There are plenty of ways to crush spices -- with a rolling pin, in a coffee grinder -- but none does the job quite as well as a mortar and pestle, which crushes and grinds spices in an appealingly coarse and irregular way. Plus I love the heft of this mortar and pestle, its primitive nature and its beauty. —Amanda Hesser
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Wood Citrus Reamer

I love the look and feel of wood citrus reamers, and they're such a pleasure to use -- you have to push out the citrus juice using the strength of your own hands. This one has particularly graceful lines. —Merrill Stubbs
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Plastic Dough Scraper

One of the most cherished utensils in my kitchen is also the cheapest: it is a plastic dough scraper that must have cost me about 75 cents. It is shaped like a half-moon, which means I can use the flat side to scrape dough and flour off of my counter, and the rounded side to scrape clean the inside of my mixing-bowl. And because it is flexible, I use it as an extension of my hand to fold sticky bread dough over itself, a necessary step to develop flavor and improve crumb structure when making pain au levain (natural starter bread) —Clotilde Dusoulier of Chocolate & Zucchini.com
amco juicer square

Amco Juicer

This juicer is incredibly efficient. You get every drop of juice out of the fruit without any seeds or pulp. I use this for any recipe that calls for fresh lemon or lime juice—and it's great when making a batch of margaritas. —Marco Canora
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Le Creuet 6-Quart Dutch Oven

My 6-qt Le Creuset Dutch oven is my go-to tool for searing, braising, making pasta sauces, etc. I love the high sides so if I'm searing a piece of meat, there's no splatter. —Bill Telepan
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Truffle Shaver

You can use it for fruits and vegetables, such as mushrooms and radishes. It's sharp, effective and looks great, so I use it in the dining room to finish dishes at guests' tables. —David Burke
 
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