Melbourne, Australia
No opera house. No Bondi Beach. No sunning celebs. This is Melbourne, home of Australia’s most thriving design scene.
In Melbourne, Australia, a city of Southern Hemisphere foodies, where fetid alleys reveal the cool cafes and bars, and hip, close-at-hand inner suburbs offer as much life as the heart of the city, everyone thinks they’ve cornered the market on the best spot in town. And odds are good that at that out-of-the-way joint a local recommended the food is as casually perfect and understated as the interior design. Visit and you’ll think that the Melbournians have taken a shine to you, that you’re getting an insider’s glimpse of the city’s hidden hot spots. Until the third night, when you realize that this—the food, the coffee, the design, and the civic pride—is Melbourne, and it thrives on just this brand of urban cool hunting.
The tight, trendy, and often gritty laneways like Croft Alley attract enough of a crowd that their seedy origins never really cause much of a problem. A bar at the end of Croft Alley, the Croft Institute, is a humming watering hole and an exemplar of the city’s laneway culture.
Yet for all the city’s up-through-the-cracks energy, its design functions magnificently at the civic scale as well. Federation Square’s bisected, fractalized buildings announce a thoroughly modern public plaza that the public actually uses; the rusted steel of Wood/Marsh’s Australian Centre for Contemporary Art is all texture and form; Southern Cross Station’s undulating roof line and engineering-as-art aesthetic made it a hallmark Sir Nicholas Grimshaw structure—until part of the roof collapsed in a storm last spring.
My tour guide, architect Andrew Maynard (with an assist from architect Kevin Hui) quickly dashed between the role of civic booster, withering critic, and ardent design enthusiast. Maynard, a native of Tasmania, came to Melbourne in 2000, worked with various local firms, and did a stint with the Richard Rogers partnership in London before forming Andrew Maynard Architects in 2002. He’s won a spate of awards for his green-minded, innovative residential design and leads the pack of talented young designers who cut their teeth on projects in Melbourne’s laneways and unused spaces and who are moving on to larger commissions. Here’s his take on what makes the city hum.
On the other end of the high-design, high-budget spectrum, Southern Cross Station designed by Grimshaw Architects, is all swooping roofs and open space. Rather a nice spot to get stuck should your train run late.
Sydney gets a lot of play out of its opera house, but Melbourne lacks that big architectural icon. Could it be Southern Cross Station or even the State Library of Victoria?
There is an ongoing debate about the “need” for a signature building in Melbourne. I really don’t see the point and it really isn’t how Melbourne operates.
Melbourne is full of significant buildings, but more importantly it is full of layered, rich, and varied urban spaces. Most people don’t get it when they come here because Melbourne requires discovery. It is the type of city where you need a local to help you find the important spaces, laneways, cafes, bars, galleries, and street life. You need a local to show you its rich, fine grain.
Melbournians take their food and drink as seriously as their design. Cafes, bars, and restaurants that pay as much attention to what’s on the menu as what surrounds it abound. Liaison Cafe has a friendly, well-executed interior tucked away on tiny Ridgeway Place. It’s on the bottom floor of the geometric Monaco House by architects McBride Charles Ryan.
A city for which a signature building is inappropriate? You’re about to run afoul of the tourism board.
Fed Square and Southern Cross Station are interesting additions, and they may have been commissioned with the intent of creating icons, I don’t know. What I like about their execution is that their authors seem to be very deliberate in producing horizontal forms that stitch themselves into the fabric of the city. Was this a deliberate tactic by the designers? Probably not, but I’d like to think that there is a little bit of Melbourne subversion showing its head in even these government projects.
Cheaper rents and a populace with a rather lively sense of discovery have helped catapult Melbourne’s previously disused laneways to the fore of the city’s life. Now, an average afternoon stroll through the Central Business District requires a quick dodge into a passageway like Centre Place for a quick coffee or a bit of people watching.
The local design stars—Denton Corker Marshall, Nonda Katsalidis, and ARM, for instance—do seem to get a lot of large civic commissions.
There are a number of significant buildings throughout Melbourne that are repeatedly done by the same firms; however, there definitely isn’t a monopoly. The city requires a level of understanding if one is to produce something competent, let alone something interesting.
I continue to be amazed at the wonderful support that I received when I first started my firm as a recently arrived, innocent, and somewhat naive Tasmanian. The big names around town are accessible and are always keen to give advice or even hand off a commission. This is probably another reason that we don’t want starchitects messing with our town. We don’t like the illusion of hierarchy.
Federation Square, a giant public plaza on the banks of the Yarra, manages to be both very high public design and a space where Melbourne actually gathers. The complex of buildings, by LAB Architecture, was the firm’s first built work.
Federation Square by LAB Architecture continues to get a lot of attention nearly a decade after the Libeskind-inspired design opened in 2002.
I don’t really have a strong opinion on Fed Square. I think your description is accurate, it’s Diet Libeskind. Interestingly, the guys from LAB taught with Libeskind, and he was one of the jurors of the design competition for the Fed Square commission. LAB Architecture had never built a single thing, not even a house renovation, when they won the commission. As an urban plaza it functions better than I thought it would. The interior of the National Gallery of Victoria [part of the Federation Square complex] is outstanding.
I was stunned by Melbourne’s suburbs. They’re easily accessed by an extensive tram system, dense, walkable, and close to the Central Business District (CBD). How did this happen?
Surrounding Melbourne’s vibrant heart is a ring of inner suburbs, each with a noticeably different tone, attracting a different type of resident. Previous generations’ investment in our once-wonderful train and tram system is the reason that Melbourne’s rich inner suburbs continue to thrive. Our tram lines create direct links from the center of the CBD in all directions. There is a huge difference between the beautiful and eclectic villages of the inner suburbs that you saw and the vast areas of banal suburbs that surround greater Melbourne, though.
Much of that density is due more to infill—the laneways, for example—than expert planning. How did all these flowers in the CBD take root?
The most compelling reason is purely economic. There are many young, creative, and interesting people in Melbourne, and if they have an idea for a bar or a boutique then there is simply no way that they are going to be able to afford a presence on the main street. Therefore, many important and exciting places have popped up deep within laneways and this in turn has provided a center of gravity for laneway culture.
The laneways are also popular due to our love of mystery and discovery. The Croft Institute is a great example of this. If a bar opens on Main Street with a big neon sign, then it is bound to fail. The Croft Institute did the opposite. It opened at the end of a doglegged dead-end laneway, past all of the smelly Chinatown Dumpsters, and has been packed from the day it opened. In any other city you would only head down a nasty, dark alley like this if you had a wish to be mugged.
Docklands, a large new development just west of the Central Business District, is a big space full of big buildings that hopes to attract tenants—–residential and commercial alike—in part through design. The Webb Bridge by Denton Corker Marshall is meant to mimic an aboriginal eel trap and is a fine addition to the neighborhood.
Laneways are grand, but Docklands—a massive new development on the Yarra, just west of the CBD—is the biggest site of development.
It is an example of instantaneous, manufactured urbanism. In many cities it would fail; however, I think it will eventually start to work well, once it gets some blood running through its veins in a generation or two. I am probably alone in this opinion, but for Docklands to become an interesting part of the city it needs to fail and become ghettoized so that interesting people can afford to move there. Otherwise, it will remain full of white upper-middle-class bankers.
Despite being so near Port Phillip Bay, Melbourne seems to be essentially a river town.
An astute observation. Though a number of suburbs like St. Kilda are oriented to the bay, Melbourne is a river city. Melbourne has always struggled with its relationship to the Yarra, however. Industrialization and bad planning have isolated the river from the people for over 100 years. Only in the last 20 years have efforts been made to better link up with the river. Melbournians are getting better at making the most of the Yarra, but there is still a lot that we can do through clever planning and design to make it an important public artery through the city.
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Raglan Street Parkland
The design for the Raglan Street Parkland seeks to reinvigorate a forgotten public space where amenity has been severely eroded by adjacent heavy traffic.
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Melbourne Theater Company
Founded in 1953, Melbourne Theatre Company is the oldest professional theatre company in Australia. It is a semi-autonomous department of the University of Melbourne. Producing up to twelve plays in a subscription season, a full education program and a studio program, it is not only Victoria’s major theatre company and one of the major performing arts companies in Australia, but one of the largest theatre companies in the English-speaking world.
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Angelucci 20th Century
Established in 1992, Angelucci 20th Century offers a broad selection of local and international decorative furnishings and designer pieces predominantly from the 1950′s and 1960′s.
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Webb Bridge
Cross the Yarra river by foot or bicycle over the Webb Bridge, located just west of the Docklands highway.
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Curtin House
The Curtin House is one of Melbourne's historic Art Nouveau gems.
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Alphaville
Located on bustling Flinders Lane, Alphaville is a boutique and local label that features classic cuts with an urban vibe.
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Mr Tulk, State Library of Victoria
The State Public Library of Victoria is one of Melbourne's not prominent cultural institutions. Its public reference library and collection includes ephemera, artworks, audio and video files, digitized copies of works, music scores, books and more. Not to miss is Mr Tulk, a cafe named after their first librarian, Augustus Tulk.
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The Croft Institute
A bar at the end of Croft Alley, the Croft Institute, is a humming watering hole and an exemplar of Melbourne’s laneway culture.
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Australian Centre for Contemporary Art
The Australian Centre for Contemporary Art is Melbourne’s leading contemporary art gallery presenting the most challenging, innovative and creative visual art of our time. Designed by Melbourne based architects, Wood Marsh, ACCA’s distinctive steel building is in the heart of Melbourne’s arts precinct in Southbank. The landmark rust-red structure is one of Melbourne’s architectural icons.
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As a Melburnian, I was really proud to see this article in an American magazine. Andrew Maynard can quite rightly call himself a Melburnian now, after an 11 year induction into our city, he certainly knows all of the top spots and our best architecture. We have a really good residential architecture scene too (just check out AM's work to see for yourself). In Melbourne we don't seem to worry anymore about Sydney. After all, Melbourne is the home of design, culture, sport and food in Australia. Sure we don't have Bondi, but we are a short drive to some really nice beaches on the Mornington and Bellarine Peninsulas. One of my favourite spots to go to is Seven Seeds Cafe in Carlton and de Clieu in Fitzroy. Smith Brunswick Streets in Fitzroy & Collingwood are really great for shopping, food and people watching. Richmond is great for these things too as well as furniture/homewares. There are too many to list, but if you ever have a spare few days (you Americans I am talking to), make sure you add in Melbourne to your itinerary, especially in March (our autumn/fall). Good work Dwell!
Who is the artist of this piece?
The red-combination flooring at Federation Square (#16) was chosen in a particularly Melbourne-idiosyncratic way. A group of skateboarders were gathered and asked to rate in order the best to worst flooring for them. The "worst", these bumpy tiles, were duly laid! The flat stair-edges are a lovely place to sit and hang out without the whoosh, screech or safety problems from skateboarders. Love my hometown. Miss her greatly. Thanks Dwell - although I would have made the photo montage significantly longer to show just a few more parts of this beautiful city.
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