Brian Keaney of TonfiskDesign may be Irish, but his Finnish is flawless; he guides us through icecold Helsinki’s hot spots.
For the past 20 years Finland’s most famous star has been native son and world-class ski jumper Matti Nykänen, known not just for his numerous medals and world records, but also for his frequent appearances in the tabloids. Nykänen has graced the pages of the rags for his five marriages to four different women, multiple arrests, jail time, and stints as waiter, singer, and stripper. But times have changed, and these days Nykänen’s not garnering the most attention in the flourishing Nordic capital of Helsinki; a new breed of young designers and a burgeoning creative scene are creating a more compelling stir.
Brian Keaney should know. His firm, Tonfisk Design, which specializes in innovative ceramic tableware and accessories, is one of the fresh forces ushering in the next era of Finnish design. Says Keaney, “I think it’s going to be interesting in 10 or 20 years to look back at this period and consider the results. There’s so much interesting stuff going on—new companies and designers are breaking through, and new processes of production are offering a lot of opportunities.” Keaney, an amiable expat from Ireland, started the now-hot design studio with friend and fellow University of Art and Design Helsinki graduate Tony Alfström. Don’t let his roots mislead you: His Finnish is spot on, and one need look no further than the Tonfisk website to know how committed he and the company are to important cultural cues like herring and mobile phones.
New names like Heikkinen-Komonen Architects, fashion house Ivana Helsinki, and Tonfisk Design are making new headlines in Helsinki. We sat down with Keaney to learn more about Finland’s metropolitan epicenter, where the winters are cold, Aalto is worshiped, and the sauna is king.
The Finns have always been influenced by and connected to an intimate love of nature. Is this still the case, or are things changing as a result of new technology?
It’s a new era, but at the same time I think if you look at the strengths of Finnish design in the earlier years, Aalto and a lot of these guys were using the latest technologies of the time, most of which were culled from the forest industry. The designs were very pared down, and those characteristics are still indicative of Finnish design today. The old guard was influenced by designers from other countries, but ideas spread so much faster these days. The landscape is a lot more eclectic now that there are so many more designers working in the field.
There’s a lot of buzz about Finnish design these days; seems like it’s a pretty crucial time for designers?
Seems to be. The ’50s and ’60s were a very big time for Finnish design, until the momentum died down a bit in the ’70s; and then it was virtually forgotten about in the ’80s. But there was a major resurgence during the ’90s, and since then there’s been a new breakthrough. A lot of new and younger designers have been given the possibility to produce and export [their products] themselves, and this trend has had a substantial impact in the community. You see a lot of vibrant stuff going on just walking around the small boutiques of the Design District.
Does the Design Forum play a prominent role in the creative community?
For Tonfisk it’s been very important. It was one of the first shops to sell our products and has become one of our most important customers. We’ve been in a lot of exhibitions of theirs, which are also touring exhibitions, so it gives you a lot of credibility within Finland, as well as abroad. It’s an important place for young designers and smaller groups because it’s kind of a first step to getting your stuff out there. Designs don’t even have to be in production, you can just have an idea and ten pieces, and they’ll start selling them. In recent years it’s been a catalyst for newcomers, as well as a good source of publicity for the more established studios.
Where are the best places to shop?
If you want to find stuff that you wouldn’t normally find elsewhere, you probably have to go to the Design District area. Marimekko, Artek, and iittala are the big names everyone is familiar with, but they’re international brands that you can find almost anywhere. The smaller and more unique producers are tucked away on the streets of this area.
Helsinki is known for its neoclassical architecture; are there any modern buildings people should see when they’re here?
There’s the Kiasma building, which is the contemporary art museum designed by Steven Holl, and of course Finlandia Hall, one of Aalto’s major accomplishments. There are a lot of great Art Deco buildings down by the sea. The train station was designed by Eliel Saarinen, and is a fantastic example of this style. The Temppeliaukion Kirkko, or Rock Church, is something everyone should see while they’re here. It was designed in the late ’60s, and is an underground structure blasted out of a solid granite outcropping. The Olympic Stadium is another impressive site. It was built in the ’30s for the Olympics, but wasn’t used until the 1952 games because of the war. It’s still used today, most recently for the Track and Field World Championships in 2005. It’s amazing to think it was built about 70 years ago, and it is still as modern as any other building we have here.
I had a fantastic meal at Restaurant Nokka last night. Where are some of your favorite places to eat?
I like the more traditional Finnish places. There are three I’d recommend; one of them is the Sea Horse. It’s got good service, white tablecloths, and an interesting mixture of people. There’s another place called Kosmos; it’s a step up, a little bit finer but the same kind of basic traditional food. The last of my favorites is called the Three Crowns. It has a very ’50s style with rich wood paneling in the interior. If you’re looking for the traditional café experience, I’d recommend Café Engel. It’s situated on an idyllic square with a view of the cathedral, has wireless access for Internet junkies, and serves enormous, tasty breakfasts. The Kauppahalli is also a great source for easy meals and quick snacks. It’s a traditional market hall near the Esplanade Park with a wide variety of cuisine and wares.
And if we insatiable Americans can find time in between meals, what would you recommend for entertainment?
Finns do love the outdoors, so you’ve got to take in the fresh air while you’re here. The Töölönlahti is a nice outdoor spot to check out the bay. There are walking trails that circle the area, and there is a wooded central park that comes all the way into the city. The Seurasaari is another fun outing for a day trip. It is a beautiful island just 15 minutes via bus from the center of town that has great examples of traditional wooden houses; very peaceful to walk around. You can stroll on the beach, have lunch at the restaurant, and visit an old wooden church that’s very popular during the summer for weddings. Most importantly, you can’t leave without taking a sauna. One of the best places to take a traditional sauna and dip in the sea is the Finnish Sauna Society. The organization is closed to the public during the day, but reservations are available to everyone in the evening. Most of the important decisions in Finland are made in places like this.














