Cutting Edge
With our airwaves packed with celebrity chefs, Americans are proving to have a solid appetite for what Julia Child would call cuisine—at least on television.
With our airwaves packed with celebrity chefs, Americans are proving to have a solid appetite for what Julia Child would call cuisine—at least on television. For those of you who have yet to trade the remote for a silicone spatula, and have only sweated over soufflés, syrups, and sautés during the finale of Top Chef, we offer a sage bit of culinary wisdom: Get a good knife.
Our knife research began with a turn of the dictionary’s page. We found that knives, and those with the calluses to prove countless hours logged in at the cutting board, have a language all their own. The heel, for instance, is the rear part of the blade used for more forceful cutting. The spine is the thicker portion at the top. Scales are the two pieces that make up the handle. The butt is, frankly, the butt. The vocabulary isn’t just zoological. A full tang isn’t referencing the astronaut drink but rather a blade that extends through the end of the handle, providing both durability and balance.
Armed with our newly acquired taxonomy, but faced with a baffling array of blades (from the wee paring knife to the daunting cleaver), we narrowed our selections to the chef’s knife. This multipurpose blade was derived from its samurai-descended cousin, the santoku (literally “three good things,” referring to slicing, dicing, and mincing), and offers the widest range of functionality.
Josh Epple, co-owner of one of the oldest butcher shops in California, Drewes Bros. Meats, graciously agreed to test our knives’ (pork) chops. Price and material are important factors to consider, but there’s no substitute for real-world experience. Luckily, roasts and fillets abound at Drewes, where Josh and his crew put our cutlery to the test.
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Shun Classic 6-inch Chef’s Knife
What We Think: This is the staff favorite; out of all of the knives, we used this one the most. It’s got a great grip, feel, and weight to it. You could almost use it as a boning knife it’s so versatile. We’ve been doing all kinds of horrible things to this and it’s held up really well.
What We Think: The D-shaped handle is tailor-made for either hand, providing a superior feel and fit (lefties should be sure to order accordingly). The Shun is made from the hardest steel of the bunch, but will be more difficult for novices to sharpen at home. The multi-layered manufacturing process adds shock resistance—no mere frivolity when preparing for large dinner parties.
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Oxo 8-inch Professional Chef's Knife
Expert Opinion: This one has the most bang for your buck. It’s got the best handle, and does a good job for basic needs if you don’t want to spend a lot of money.
What We Think: Price doesn’t always determine quality, and the OXO knife exemplifies this. Their Good Grips tagline isn’t just ad-speak; the handle was the most ergonomic and the edge held its own against the higher-priced cutlery.
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Platinum Collection 8-inch Chef’s Knife
Expert Opinion: Nothing too fancy, but it gets the job done. It’s got a good weight to it, and the handle’s got a natural feel; the white accent is a nice touch. I’d buy this knife to use at home.
What We Think: For those of us who can’t afford the latest and greatest, the Culinhome is a welcome option. The form and appearance are relatively basic, but the white handle stands out amongst a sea of black-clad competitors.
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8-inch G-2 Chef’s Knife
Expert Opinion: Out of all the metal handles I like this one the best, but it’s still kind of a knuckle banger. It has the best edge of all the metal ones, and, of course, the appearance is really nice.
What We Think: Josh has pretty big hands, so the Global may be a better choice for women (and carnies). While we agree it’s one of the more sexy pieces of cutlery on the market, the spine is pretty thin on the top, so it can dig into your hand after continuous use.
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8-inch FX Coppertail Chef’s Knife
Expert Opinion: The metallic sound it makes [when it hits the block] started to annoy me immediately. And the handle is all wrong—it’s too narrow. The shape and angle of it makes you bang your knuckles when you’re chopping. I don’t like it, but the edge held up really well.
What We Think: Füri spent a lot of time consulting with chefs to improve the classic multitasking knife. As the blade gets lighter from being sharpened over time, users are supposed to file down the copper end of the handle to retain the desired balance and weight.
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Trident 8-inch Classic Chef’s Knife
Expert Opinion: This is the classic old-school knife—a quality, solid standby. The curve at the end of the handle locks in your hand quite well; it feels really natural. But for someone at home, I don’t think it’s the best choice. It’s like mass media, the market is flooded with them.
What We Think: Wüsthof has been around since 1814, and has a hallowed reputation in the industry. Some enthusiasts prefer the older, pre-1987 models, which used fresh-cut steel as opposed to recycled steel, which sometimes leads to impurities.
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6-inch Chef's Knife
What We Think: I’ve been doing stuff with this knife that no one else would, and three days later the edge is still holding up pretty well. But the handle is super slippery, and it’s light as a feather. When you’re chopping you want something that’s just going to fall through whatever you’re cutting.
What We Think: Some chefs like ceramic because it doesn’t absorb odors and requires less sharpening, but we think the novelty of this contrarian selection will wane in time. If you happen to prefer an ethereal weight, this may be a good way to go.
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