Victorian Revival
A couple’s dinner out at their neighborhood bistro provides just the right impetus for their restaurant-inspired kitchen renovation.
As soon as Suzanne Feld walked into the popular Universal Café in San Francisco’s Mission district in 1995, she knew she’d found the concept she wanted to follow in bringing her own kitchen into the 21st century. “The room had this elegant austerity,” Suzanne recalls. “It was clean and light, with almost a laboratory feeling—but not at all stark.” By contrast, the kitchen in the circa-1905 flat that Suzanne and Sergio Feld share with their son and daughter was “cramped, small, dark, decrepit—a disaster,” she says. Sharing space with a brick chimney, a butler’s pantry, and a rickety utility porch left the Felds “no room to move, let alone cook.”
Universal Café had been transformed from a turn-of-the-century garage into a kind of airy, semi-industrial jewel box filled with handcrafted elements by architectural designer Larissa Sand. Suzanne plucked Sand’s business card from a bowl on the sinuous maple-clad and marble-topped bar, and added her to a list that Suzanne put together with the help of her colleagues in the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art’s department of architecture and design, where Suzanne is a curatorial associate for the department of photography (Sergio is an environmental policy adviser to the United Nations Development Program). “We saw a stack of portfolios, and while the work was all technically competent, there was no comparable emotional ‘click’ like we felt with Larissa,” says Suzanne.
Prized possessions such as the old English butcher’s block sit cheek-to-jowl with 21st-century amenities, such as the stacking ovens by Dacor, six-burner Viking stove, and Miele dishwasher.
After years of mulling it over, the Felds were spurred to action by their daughter’s impending bat mitzvah. “The kitchen is the center of the home, everybody ends up here, and you could barely turn around!” says Suzanne. Sand, a deceptively delicate-looking woman with the long blond hair and ice-blue eyes of some Russian fairy-tale princess (albeit one who powers around on a silver Ducati), concurs: “It was like fine surgery to both open it up and fit everything in.” Sand worked closely with herstaff on the design of the kitchen, especially projectmanager Liane Thomas. Some direction was provided by the rest of the flat, a surprisingly harmonious mélange of original fixtures, modern artwork, and Asian antiques. “We were happy to lose the period molding and ornamentation, which was crumbling away,” says Suzanne. “At the same time, we didn’t want a schizo kitchen. We needed to work within this Victorian space, but not give in to it.” Sand recalls that many of the images the Felds tagged were of Victorian-type kitchens—big, utilitarian spaces designed for a staff to work in (à la Gosford Park) rather than as static showpieces.
Designer Jeff Sand’s Universal Chairs combine his love for classic French café chairs with an appreciation for “the beautiful metal casings on an old Moto Guzzi.” Sand Studios also designed the dining table and pendant lamp.
Like the Universal Café, the Felds’ new kitchen is clean, modern, and laced with industrial touches (laboratory faucets, lab glass pendant lamps designed by Sand, stainless steel appliances) while animated by materials and crafted elements that radiate warmth: fir floors unearthed from beneath two layers of linoleum; a fireclay farm sink made in England; Carrera marble counters that extend up the walls; walnut shelving; and industrial mechanisms that put the hardware on display, such as the suspended rolling blackboard that conceals the water heater. Instead of a solid, dark wall of cabinetry, a triptych of steel-framed cabinets with sliding textured-glass panels reveals objects on open walnut shelves while screening clutter. And there are practical conveniences, such as a spout above the stove for filling pots. The Felds’ antique English butcher block, long relegated to storage, found a space by the entrance where it provides a bridge to the house, as does Suzanne’s collection of baskets from around the world displayed on a ledge.
The Feld kitchen bridges eras by bringing together traditional designs and materials (the big Shaw’s Original English farmhouse sink, fir floors, honed marble counters) with industrial designs. Open walnut shelving helps convey a sense of lightness. The pot-and-pan drawers pull out for easy access, while rolling steel-framed panels of textured glass above the counter act as a scrim, allowing the Felds to choose what to obscure and what to display.
The space is not entirely hassle-free—surfaces such as soft floors and honed marble are vulnerable to gouges and staining—but there are no regrets. “I suppose Corian or granite would have required less maintenance,”
muses Suzanne, “but they could never impart this quality of character and life. It wouldn’t have been the kitchen I’ve been waiting for.”
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Where can I find the sliding door hardware for the door and upper cabinets? I really love them, but do not know the best web-site to find them, at a reasonable cost, nor can I find them in the Metro Detroit area.
Where are her plates and mugs from? i love the color.
Where do you get rolling cabinet hardware like the ones above?
I'm always happy to come on this website which provides many new things
what are the dimensions of this kitchen? It is the prettiest modern kitchen in an older home I have ever seen.
PLEASE tell us where you get the rolling cabinet hardware!! I adore this kitchen!!
I do not know the owner or the installer, but I would bet those materials and setup were purchased from Wilson Glass in Berkeley.
I'm the previous owner of this home and installed the kitchen pictured in DWELL. Everything in the kitchen - except the appliances - was designed by the architect, Larissa Sand and then fabricated to order by Sand Studios (all the metal work and glass) and by the cabinetmaker. None of the items mentioned in the comments are available "off the shelf" nor were they purchased in any store.
I also saw the white moroccan tiles in a European magazine a few years and haven't been able to locate a San Francisco supplier. From who were you able to buy the tiles in the Bay Area?
a google of barn door hardware turned up several sites. here's one that is an example of full size door hardware but i'm sure you can buy smaller hardware for cabinets. just look for a lighter weight restriction. http://www.barndoorhardware.com/
Where is the food stored? Is there a pantry not pictured?
barndoorhardware.com has some sexy hardware. If i was going to do this i would make it a point of showing the hardware if you got it from them as it looks so good. Like the concept.
Those kitchen cabinet sliders are incredible, and the sliding blackboard is stunning! A beautiful custom job for sure, but there are stock ways to achieve a similar look. We ordered flat track hardware from http://crown-industrial.com/ in clear-coated steel to hang a large, acid-etched panel of glass as an ensuite door. But - we got the actual flat steel rail from our local Metal Supermarket for less than $10. We drilled the track ourselves and clear coated it. Saved about $500 in product and shipping costs, plus the 8-wk lead time on full systems. The hardware was maybe $400. Less, I think, as it was only considered a parts order.
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